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Müller Thurgau 2023

Producer: Cantina Kurtatsch
Region: Alto Adige
Appellation: Alto Adige
Country: Italy
Classification: DOC
Wine Type: White
Variety: Müller Thurgau
Bottle Size: 750 ml
Alcohol: 12.5%
Soil: Sandy loam, with quartz and dolomite
Farming Practices: Sustainable
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Cellar Profile


This organic winery is situated in the picturesque village bearing its name in Alto Adige, nestled in the Southern Alps and Dolomite mountain ranges. Its hand-crafted mountain wines are painstakingly made with as little intervention as possible to best exemplify the unique terroir of the region. These red wine vineyards have some of the hottest daytime temperatures in all of Italy, rising to 40℃ during the summer months, but with a significant drop in temperature in the evening to retain freshness. The whites come from the hamlets of Hofstatt and Penon, with heroic vineyards planted on exceedingly steep mountainsides at elevations up to 2500 ft above sea level. These rocky outcrops have a multitude of geological peculiarities, giving their wines intense, saline-like minerality. These are amongst the most aromatic and flavourful white wines on earth, ranging in style from steely dry to lusciously sweet.

Region


The region of Trentino-Alto Adige is bordered by East and North Tyrol (Austria) to the northeast and north respectively, by Graubünden (Switzerland) to the northwest and by the Italian regions of Lombardy to the west and Veneto to the south and southeast. It covers 13,607 square kilometres, is extremely mountainous and includes a large part of the Dolomites and the southern Alps. Südtirol (where Cantina Kurtatsch is located) has an area of 7,398 square kilometres, all of it mountainous land covered by vast forests. The climate here is Mediterranean (hot summer, cold winters) owing to the influence of the many mountain ranges (> 3,000 metres above sea level) and the wide valleys through which flow the main river, the Adige, and its numerous tributaries.

Vineyard


Graun Vineyard — Cantina Kurtatsch’s highest at 800-900 masl — has dolomitic soil with sandy loam. Extremely steep, planted on rocky terraces, all vineyard management must be done by hand. The Müller Thurgau vines get full daytime sun from their southeastern exposure, which helps offset the cooler mountain temperatures, particularly in the evenings. Lashed by winds, there is no need for spraying or pest control.

Varieties


A crossing of Riesling and a lost grape called Madeleine Royale, Müller Thurgau is the 3rd most planted varietal in Germany. Similar to Riesling, it enjoys cooler climates, but it ripens earlier, is nowhere near as finicky about site selection and can have hefty yields compared to its more respected parent. Light-to-medium bodied, with medium acidity, these wines generally give lemon-lime, flint and apple notes. Riper riper versions, or ones with residual sweetness, will offer some peach and floral elements. Although used primarily for bulk production of fairly neutral wines, some producers in Rheinhessen and Baden are making serious, stellar wines with Müller Thurgau by restricting yields, ripening longer and making more careful site selection. Over the border in Italy, Alto Adige winemakers are making brilliant versions from elevated vineyard sites.

Winemaking


Grapes from the steep vineyard must be hand-harvested and sorted before being pressed into stainless steel for a long, cool fermentation to preserve primary aromas. The wine will age on its fine lees in large, neutral oak barrels, before being bottled young and fresh.

Tasting Notes 


A surprisingly delicate wine, there is still an aromatic character to this fresh charmer. Notes of peach, white flowers and pink grapefruit on the nose. The palate is nervy and fresh. On the palate, tart apple notes mix with ripe peach and a good lick of saltiness. Chill lightly and enjoy with chicken stir-fry or chill well and serve with seafood salad or oysters.