Cellar Profile
Nestled along the banks of the Danube River, Bononia Estate is named for the ancient Roman Fortress that occupied the spot now known as the town of Vidin, where Roman armies brought vines for the cultivation of wine grapes. After careful soil analysis, the area was replanted to grape in 2013 and the first vintage was produced in 2016. The Danube River appellation of Bulgaria is a moderate to cool region, with warm, dry days and cold evenings during the growing season. This large diurnal shift, coupled with breezes from the Danube, allows for ecological viticulture. Utilizing organic practices in tandem with technological advances and a keen eye for sustainability, Bononia Estate crafts nervy, fruit-forward and balanced wines, focusing on Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the exciting, vibrant, autochthonous local varietal, Gamza. Bulgarian wine has long been eschewed by “serious” wine drinkers as cheap, cheerful and forgettable. However, Bononia is part of the modern landscape of Bulgarian winemaking, with a focus on fine wines as opposed to bulk production, and the wine world is beginning to take notice! The Estate made the World’s Best Vineyards TOP 100 list in 2024.
Region
There are only two wine growing regions in Bulgaria: the Thracian Lowlands and the Danubian Plain. The latter lies south of the iconic Danube River, with the Black Sea to the East and Serbia and Macedonia to the West. The region enjoys as many sunlight hours during the growing season as Northern Italy and Portugal, allowing for full ripening of both international and indigenous varieties. The movement of the Danube River, as well as the influence of the Black Sea, moderate heat during the day and keep the evenings cool, ensuring brilliant acid levels in the wines. The yields are remarkably small in Bulgaria, with an average of only 4.3 tons/ha. By comparison, the US averages 18 tons/ha. Jancis Robinson has noted the exceptional potential of this northwestern part of Bulgaria and the wine world is starting to pay attention.
Vineyard
Planted in 2013 utilizing the Guyot training system, these vineyards are strategically placed just south of the Danube, along its banks. The fast flowing water accompanying breezes keep the grapes cool and dry during the growing season. The soil has great drainage and is composed of dark loam created by the ancient forests surrounding the region. These are true cool climate vineyards, so canopy management is key to ensuring the grapes get enough sunlight.
Winemaking
Hand-harvested grapes are gently pressed into stainless steel, where they macerate and ferment with selected yeasts. After primary fermentation is complete, the wine is transferred to 225L French oak barriques for malolactic fermentation and four months of aging on its lees before bottling.
Varieties
Gamza, known as Kadarka elsewhere in the Balkans, has been around since antiquity and is grown mostly in northwest Bulgaria. This autochthonous grape has thin skins and is prone to rot and mold, which is why it does best planted in windy, hilly areas with low humidity. These wines are medium-bodied, fresh and lively, with low to medium tannin levels. Stylistically, they are often compared to Cru Beaujolais or Oregon Pinot Noir.
Tasting Notes
Fruit forward and vibrant on the nose, with red cherry, blueberry, baking spices and white pepper. The palate is zesty and elegant, with crunchy acidity framing lush, primary red fruits. Cherry, raspberry, red plum and some back-palate sweet vanilla hints. Chill lightly and serve with grilled spicy sausages, beet and goat cheese salads or pork carnitas tacos.