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www.buyersandcellars.ca Cellar Profile
Founded in 1898, Ponte da Boga is Ribeira Sacra’s oldest winery. It was purchased in 2006 by the Rivera family, who have focused their efforts on growing and vinifying ancient, autochthonous regional varieties including Godello, Mencia and the ultra-rare Merenzao. Their 33 hectares of vineyards surround the canyons of rivers Sil, Mino and Edo. The majority of plots are located on dizzyingly steep slopes where ‘heroic viticulture’ – including manual work using harnesses, sometimes accessed only by boats from the river – is necessary. Their oldest vines are over 100 years old. All are farmed by hand according to the concept of integrated management and only natural preventative measures are used to keep the vines healthy and pest-free. The wines are fresh and elegant, with a subtle complexity and exceptional drinkability.
Region
Located in the heart of Galicia, Ribeira Sacra is one of Spain’s oldest and most obscure wine regions, known for its dramatic, deep valleys and extremely steep, terraced vineyards that cut through its many rivers and tributaries. Ribeira Sacra is home to a wide array of indigenous grape varieties, chief among them for whites being Albariño and Godello (the real star of the region). Red grapes include obscure varieties like Brancellao, Merenzao and Souson, along with the most planted and well known Mencia. The geologic landscape varies greatly, but schist, granite and slate are the most prevalent soil types. Vineyard sites in the region’s west are heavily influenced by the Atlantic ocean and its moderating climatic effect. As you move east and inland, the climate becomes more traditionally Continental. In general, climatic conditions here make grape growing a somewhat difficult process. When combined with naturally low yields and necessary ‘heroic viticulture’, Ribeira Sacra vineyards are labour-intensive and costly to manage. However, the results can be well worth the expense, with the very best wines offering a rare combination of freshness, power, elegance, fruit intensity and complex savoury intrigue. They are at their best at the table alongside a variety of fare, Spanish and otherwise.
Vineyard
Sourced from the Adega’s Eloy Vineyard overlooking the river Edo. Atlantic climate with continental influence. Elevation ranges between 400 and 550 meters above sea level. Southeast facing with very poor schist-based subsoil.
Varieties
A high quality grape hailing from northwest Spain and northern Portugal, Godello is experiencing a renaissance of late. Generally speaking, it makes nicely-structured wines with finesse, and shows notes of grapefruit, green pear, peach and sometimes stony minerality.
Winemaking
Hand-picked grapes were pressed and fermented in steel tanks. Must was left on the lees for months. A small proportion was fermented in French oak barrels.
Tasting Notes
Unlike the majority of their Bierzo counterparts, Ribeira Sacra Godellos are firmly-structured and full of wonderful tension. This has subtle yet complex aromas of limonera pear, green apple, fresh cut herbs, jasmine and hints of stony minerality. The palate is mid-weight and elegant, with plenty of zesty acids and wonderful length. This is an exceptionally clean, stylish and modern Godello that’s a versatile food partner. Pair with grilled prawns, mussels in sauce, planked salmon or roast chicken.