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Nestled in the Friuli hills, just 30 km from the sea and a short distance from Slovenia’s winegrowing regions, Ronco delle Betulle is in a historic and acclaimed region for wine production. The subzone of Rosazzo is part of the larger Colli Oriental del Friuli DOCG. The estate has been certified organic since 2019. The mother/son team of Ivana and Simone Adami believe in minimal intervention, both in the vineyard and the winery. They eschew chemicals and herbicides, use only estate fruit, avoid irrigation and machine harvesting, utilize spontaneous ferments and only use light filtration in a couple of their white wines, with the remainder of their production bottled unfined and unfiltered. Though Colli Orientali is known more for its aromatic white wines, the Rosazzo subzone is also a great place to produce structured reds, particularly from the indigenous varieties, Pignolo and Refosco. The vineyards sit in the curious “Ponca” soil that exists only in this region. It is rich in mineral salts that carry through into the wines, offering a balancing salinity to the opulent fruit.
Region
Ronco delle Betulle nestles in the hilly eastern part of Friuli in a sub zone called Rosazzo, an estate of approximately 17 hectares, of which 10 are under vine. The hills of Rosazzo benefit from a special microclimate set by several geographical factors: its closeness to the sea, its altitude and the presence of elevated parts. The nearby sea (which is approximately 30 km away) and the vicinity of the hills of Salta Caterina mitigate the climate; it is more breezy,more sunny and less rainy here than in surrounding areas. The DOCG Rosazzo was created in 1995 and covers only the small vineyard area surrounding the historic Abbey that gives the appellation its name. DOCG Rosazzo must be a white blend made of Friulano (at least 50%), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Ribolla Gialla. These rare, complex whites are produced in miniscule quantities and are prized for their character.
Vineyard
The vines are planted 70 quintals per hectare using a double-arched cane trellising system. The harvest is strictly manual. Ronco delle Betulle benefits from mixed soil made of marl, calcareous clay, sandstone and calcified sand. This soil, referred to as “Ponca”, originated approximately 50 million years ago. It is rich in mineral salts and other nutrients that yield high quality grapes and fine wines.
Varieties
Friulano, also known as Sauvignonasse, is the most popular and widely-planted white grape variety in Friuli. This late-budding, lean, dry, herbal white is often mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc. Friulano wines can gain body and complexity when grapes are harvested later in the growing season, with care to restrict yields. Extended lees contact can also improve character. Sauvignon Blanc originates from the Bordeaux region of France. Depending on the climate, it can range from aggressively grassy to sweetly tropical. but always retains vibrant acidity. Chardonnay is the world’s most famous and widely-planted white grape, with the most highly-regarded expressions coming from Burgundy and California. Climate plays a major role in dictating which fruit flavours these wines will have. Malolactic fermentation will give distinctive buttery aromas and Chardonnay integrates particularly well with oak. Pinot Blanc, or Pinot Bianco, is the white grape mutation of Pinot Noir. It is found mostly in Germany and Northern Italy, where wines are refreshing, peachy and dry. Sometimes intensely aromatic, Pinot Blanc can display notes of white florals and stone fruit. Ribolla Gialla is thought to have originated in the Friuli Collio / Goriška Brda region. Ripening of this grape can be tricky and care must be taken in site location and soil type for the vines. Despite their thick skins, Ribolla grapes are quite easily damaged and can only be picked by hand. White wine made from Ribolla is typically light-bodied with high acidity and floral notes.
Winemaking
Each varietal in the blend is harvested and vinifed individually, so that the fruit is completely ripe. Hand-harvested, sorted and de-stemmed, a portion of the grapes are cool macerated for a few days to garner complexity, before being pressed into steel for cool fermentation using wild yeasts. Some of the wine will see a small amount of aging in French oak barrels, while the rest ages on its lees in stainless steel, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, where it ages for another year before release.
Tasting Notes
One of the most exciting white wines you will ever taste. Intensely aromatic, with a nose of white flowers, grapefruit, peach, petrichor and lime. The palate is electric, with brilliant acidity balancing the full mouth feel. The wine is dry, but it has a richness to it, and the primary fruit is dominant. Intriguing and charming, with a satisfying saline minerality interwoven throughout. Do not overchill, as you do not want to mute the fruit. Serve with Prosciutto and melon, Vegetable Stir-Fry or takeout Chinese Food.