Cellar Profile
Markou Vineyards is one of the eldest artisanal wineries of Athens. It was first established by the Markou family in 1908 and is currently operated by the 4th generation of family winemakers. They vinify approximately 10 hectares of privately owned vineyards in the Attican wine country of Athens and another 10 hectares of privately owned, certific organic vineyards in the Nemean wine country of Corinth. Grapes in the Athenian vineyards are primarily indigenous varieties such as Savatiano, Assyrtiko, Roditis, Malagousia and Mandilaria. In Nemea, they grow the prized indigenous red varietal, Agiorgitiko. Their vineyards are mostly comprised of 65+ year-old vines in goblet formations that are farmed sustainably, non-irrigated and keep low yields of highly concentrated fruit. Plantings were done in conjunction with nature. Thyme, rosemary and olive and cypress trees grow in the vineyards, which means biodiversity flourishes, reducing the need for spraying and aiding in pest control. A deft touch is used in the winery, with minimal intervention.
Region
Attiki (Attica) is one of the world’s oldest wine regions. The eponymous PGI Attiki is its most well-known appellation and mthe historic city of Athens sits at its centre. A variety of micro and meso climates can be found here and wines produced from this region can vary in body and quality depending upon elevation and proximity to the breezes of the nearby Aegean Sea. Gravel soils with mineral rich and heavy clay deposits, as well as pockets of limestone, are perfect for the production of fine wines. Hot summers are mitigated by the Meltemia winds that blow in from the sea, however care must be taken to keep balance in the wines when sourcing from low-lying vineyards in pockets that do not benefits from these winds to cool the grapes. The main white grapes found here are Roditis, Malagouzia and Savatiano (used historically for the production of world-renowned Retsina), while the red varieties are Agiorgitiko and Mavroudi.
Vineyard
Estate vineyards are scattered throughout the Attiki wine region, one of the oldest on earth. Old vines are planted in gravelly soils, with clay and limestone. The gnarled vines are trained without trellising and tended by hand.
Winemaking
Hand-harvested fruit, brought in cool to the winery in small boxes, was crushed into stainless steel for a brief maceration on the skins. The fruit from each vineyard is vinified separately. After spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, the wine is aged in steel on its lees to garner more complexity. Cold stabilized, it receives a light filtration before being bottled young and fresh.
Varieties
Savatiano, the most widely-planted grape variety in Greece, can be found throughout the country but its historic home is around the city of Athens. It is known primarily for the production of Retsina, a wine that has a measure of resin added to it, to give it a signature herbaceous quality. Modern winemakers have taken more care with the grape and are crafting incredible wines with bracing acidity and depth; many are reminiscent of fine cool-climate Chardonnay. It is frequently given skin contact to garner mouth-feel, aromatics and complexity. These large yellow berries are not particularly finicky and grow well in poor conditions, so yields must be managed to craft good examples.
Tasting Notes
Gold-yellow and bright, with aromas of quince, peach, apricot and green apple. The palate is zesty and nervy, with a brilliant acidic spine. There is plenty of ripe fruit to balance the steely character and to add a touch of body. Hints of the resinous / herbaceous quality that is signature to Savatiano is more a layer of complexity than a primary focal point. Chill lightly and enjoy with Tempura shrimp, fresh oysters or Spring Mix salads.