Destination Discoveries – Ribeira Sacra

Located in the heart of Galicia, Ribeira Sacra is one of Spain’s oldest and most obscure wine regions, known for its dramatic, deep valleys and extremely steep, terraced vineyards that cut through its many rivers and tributaries.  Ribeira Sacra is home to a wide array of indigenous grape varieties, chief among them for whites being Albariño and Godello (the real star of the region).  Red grapes include obscure varieties like Brancellao, Merenzao and Sousón, along with the most planted and well known, Mencía.  The geologic landscape varies greatly, but schist, granite and slate are the most prevalent soil types.  Vineyard sites in the region’s west are heavily influenced by the Atlantic ocean and its moderating climatic effect.  As you move east and inland, the climate becomes more traditionally Continental.  In general, climatic conditions here make grape growing a somewhat difficult process.  When combined with naturally low yields and necessary ‘heroic viticulture’, Ribeira Sacra vineyards are labour-intensive and costly to manage.  However,  the finest of these wines are worth it, offering a rare combination of freshness, power, elegance, fruit intensity and complex savoury intrigue.  They are at their best at the table alongside a variety of fare, Spanish and otherwise.

Spain is home to a bounty of indigenous grapes, each of them with unique histories, challenges, aromas, textures and flavours. One of the more interesting, and rarest, is Merenzao. Known as Trousseau in France’s Jura region, Merenzao is thin-skinned and prone to botrytis (Noble Rot). It is incredibly difficult to farm and to vinify, but the effort is well worth the reward. It typically makes vibrant, cherry-coloured wines with heady aromas of rich red fruits alongside a subtle, savoury, earthy complexity that keeps things fresh and compelling. At once silky and tannic, fruity and sour, these confounding juxtapositions make charming, beguiling wines. Merenzao wines tend to be full-bodied, but they drink much lighter because of the grape’s high natural acidity and elegant texture. These wines are also delightfully food friendly, pairing with everything from grilled tenderloin and roast chicken to grilled octopus romesco and other Iberian fish.

Established in 1898, Ponte da Boga is Ribeira Sacra’s oldest winery and is most responsible for Merenzao’s survival. The winery encompasses 33 hectares of vineyards, surrounding the canyons of rivers Sil, Mino and Edo. The majority of plots are located on dizzyingly steep slopes where ‘heroic viticulture’ – including manual work using harnesses, sometimes accessed only by boats from the river – is necessary. Their oldest vines are over 100 years old. All are farmed by hand according to the concept of integrated management and only natural preventative measures are used to keep the vines healthy and pest-free. The wines are fresh and elegant, with a subtle complexity and exceptional drinkability.

Ponte da Boga 2018 Capricho de Merenzao is available now through the LCBO’s Destination Collection channel, for purchase by the bottle both online and at the Spanish Boutique LCBO store located at 2946 Bloor Street West in Toronto (Bloor and Royal York).