Friuli, in the far northeastern corner of Italy, is one of the country’s least understood and most overlooked wine regions. Also known as Friuli-Venezia Giulia (FVG), it shares a border with Slovenia to the East and Veneto to the West and is framed by the shores of the Adriatic to the south. FVG is divided into several sub-regions, each with its own traditions, history and identity. Colli Orientali del Friuli is very close to the Slovenian border and many of its residents are of Slovenian descent. These hills are home to some of Friuli’s most prestigious vineyards and one of the crown jewel subzones is DOCG Rosazzo.
Nestled in the hilly Rosazzo subzone, just 30km from the Adriatic and a stone’s throw from Slovenia, lies the illustrious Ronco delle Betulle winery. The estate has been certified organic since 2019. The mother/son team of Ivana Adami and Simone believe in minimal intervention in the vineyard and in the cellar. They eschew chemicals and herbicides, use only estate fruit, avoid irrigation and machine harvesting, work with spontaneous ferments and their wines are only lightly-filtered or, more often, unfiltered and unfined. They grow treasured indigenous varietals such as Friulano, Picolit, Refosco and Ribolla Gialla, as well as Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc, which were brought to the region by the Benedictines one thousand years ago.
Here you will find a mixture of marl, calcareous clay, sandstone and calcified sand. This curious “Ponca” soil originated approximately 50 million years ago and exists no where else. It is rich in mineral salts and has excellent drainage, forcing dry-farmed vines to reach deep into the ground, passing through layers of soil types, in search of water, passing through layers of soil types. This yields high-quality grapes that give the wines a wonderful mineral salinity, which balances the opulent fruit.
The vineyards sit at an altitude of approximately 1300 feet above sea level, in the rain shadow of the Monte Santa Caterina, which ensures a dry growing season. The breezes that whistle down through the passes or up from the Adriatic make it easier to avoid fungus or mildew and extended sunny days and cool evenings lead to fully ripe grapes, rich in phenols but with a healthy dose of acidity.
Ronco delle Betulle wines are signature in flavour: intense and aromatic, but with backbone, elegant balance and saline, mineral freshness. This is one of only a handful of wineries allowed to produce Rosazzo DOCG, an aromatic white that must contain at least 50% Friulano and is made only in the finest years. All of their whites are given skin contact to garner mouth-feel, aromatics and complexity. Their red wines are bold and structured, suitable for cellaring but with enough bright fruit to be enjoyed young.
Cheers!
